Monthly Archives: August 2019

Back home – wrap up

Long travel day, but survived it – DUB-JFK-ATL. Some stats from the trip:

Flights/Miles flown: 10,071

Kilometers driven: 930

Steps/miles walked: 77,650/36.2 (according to my iPhone)

Mussels/Oysters consumed: 120/20 (across multiple meals)

Bands watched: 6 (including pub musicians who play together often)

Pubs visited: 15

Cuban cigars smoked: 2

Graveyards visited: 5

McNamaras found: 33 (not sure all are relations)

Different brands of Scotch brought home: 7

Next trip not for a few weeks…stay tuned!

The Road to Dublin

…a bit round-about, but up today needing to get back to Dublin by evening, for our flight home Sunday morning. Since we basically had all day, we decided we should see more of Galway and Mayo before hitting the motorway back to the airport hotel.

Our Route curled to the west and north of Cong, into the mountains of Mayo and up along the Atlantic coast (known here as the Wild Atlantic Way).

The hairpin at Leenaun gave great views of the thin split of ocean that comes well inland, we encountered a Garda rural road warden who walked around and inspected the car before we could proceed.

From Delphi north we hugged a lake in the Doolough Valley, at the top end of which is a memorial to dark event during the Great Famine, where hundreds walked 10 miles in the bitter cold to try and get food or tickets to a workhouse, only to be refused and sent back the way they came. Hundreds died of cold, hunger and exhaustion.

The northern coast road from Louisburgh to Westport was scenic, and then we shopped and walked around Westport which was teeming with people on a relatively warm dry day.

From Westport we then went through Castlebar and down a pretty straight shot back to Dublin. Despite my growing head cold, we are now settled and ready (if not that willing) to head home tomorrow.

Cong, Co Mayo

One full day here in County Mayo before we start heading back to reality. We stayed over in Cong, a small village famous primarily for (and cashing in on) being the setting for the 1952 John Ford film The Quiet Man. (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0045061/ in case you have been in a cave for the past 65 years). Did our tourist bit and made sure to hit some key sites.

The bar where Danagher and Thornton argues over who would buy a drink mid-fight

Cong Main Street – the fight continued out here after the pub scene

Beside all of this trivia, Cong is also home to a very cool 13th century abbey (the site was actually an abbey originally in the 7th century, but current ruins only date from the 1200s).

And Cong is also situated on extensive preserved forest land that was once owned by the Guinness family, including nearby Ashford Castle. We hiked about 4 miles of trails and climbed the Guinness Tower, built by (certainly at the direction of) B.L. Guinness in 1864. At the time it would have commanded a view for miles around, but now the trees have outgrown it and the view is limited.

Lough Corrib is the largest fresh water lake in Ireland and both Cong and Ashford Castle are situated nearby. We took a two hour lake cruise – primarily out to the island Inchagoill in the center, which is home to the ruins of both a 12th century and a fifth century church and grounds, the latter said to have been built by St. Patrick when he was exiled to the island by pagan Irish druids. We had a guided tour of the ruins, then back to Ashford and the public dock.

Three of the 10 depicted saints on 12th Century church – St. Brendan, St. Patrick and St. Brigid

Stone of Luguaedon – St Patrick’s navigator – oldest Christian markings in Europe – 470AD

Ashford Castle – 1288 – owned by Guinness family 1852-1938

Tomorrow, we leave Cong and will head west into Galway and Mayo before heading back down to Dublin for our trip home…

Clare to Galway to Mayo

Checked out of Liscannor (a fantastic AirBnb place btw – happy to direct you if you choose to go) and decided to take the coast road up through Co Clare and into Co Galway on our way to Cong in Co Mayo. This drive hugs the western Irish coast and affords some fantastic views of the sea, cliffs and countryside. Unfortunately a bit rainy and fog today, so no stop at the Cliffs of Moher, but we have been before, and there is much more to see.

Heading up the coast stopped at Doolin for some shopping and to catch the coast road. A bit further along we stopped at a spot purpose made for views of the ocean from atop some other cliffs – spectacular views and yes, the waves do reach the top!

After leaving this not far up the road we stopped at Fanore’s Craggagh Cemetery- because this is what I do…lucky bonus about a dozen McNamaras that we will look up when we get home.

After this we stopped in at Linnane’s Seafood Bar for some amazing fresh oysters – this place was built over 300 years ago right on the ocean. Great food and a great stop for lunch.

From there we headed around Galway Bay to Cong in Co Mayo, where we walked around for a little while before getting in at Danagher’s Hotel and Bar for dinner, beers and music.

If Danagher sounds familiar think Maureen O’Hara and The Quiet Man – this town is where the classic John Ford movie was filmed. More on that tomorrow as we play tourist…

Liscannor Bay

Rainy day nearly all day, curtailed our plans to drive along the coast and see some sights. Did eventually get out and visited Kilmacreehy Cemetery which we saw along the road and overlooking the ocean. What an amazing place to be buried…named for a sixth century saint who had his church in the site.

We headed into Lahinch for dinner and a walk along the beach, which was churning from the tide and the wind.

One more stop into Frawley’s, and then a nightcap in Flanagan’s to listen to some music before calling it a night.

Tomorrow – road trip to County Mayo!